Removing track rod ends

[kevinod]

Hi,

having problems removing a track rod end (to replace a split steering gaiter). I have the ball joint separated from the wheel end, but not having any joy budging it from the track rod itself.

There's the track rod end, a locking bolt, and the track rod itself. I've tried holding the track rod with a spanner and twisting the track rod end, and the locking bolt, both ways, and I'm not getting any movement on the thing at all (so far casualties include my knuckles & a spanner).

The workshop manual order or removal says the lock nut first and then the track rod end, which I'm taking to mean you turn the the lock nut bolt clockwise to move it away from the track rod end, and then unscrew the track rod end anti-clockwise to take it off.

Is that right?

Kev.

[CJ]

Never done it to be honest but I always thought that you would have to lock the track rod with a stilsons wrench or something similar and then use plenty of torque to unscrew the TRE...

CJ

[mark]

I replaced the gaitors myself recently and was able to slide them over, no wait, I screwd the TR end off by rotating manually the steeing/ tracking arm until it came off, obviously you need to unscew the nut before hand! It's a bit of manual labour but you'll get it in about 4/5mins. A good pair grippy gloves helps. Or you could knock out the locking pin under the track rod end but I think the first option is easier. Getting the gaitors on is another awkward story!

[kevinod]

Thanks guys... eventually got it after several doses of WD40 and leaving it for a good while. So just one more job and I'll hopefully be in business for the NCT next week.

[kevinod]

Oh ya, I should really answer my question!

The lock nut goes clockwise, a turn or two and then the track rod end comes very easy then, screwing off anticlockwise (once you have the bottom bolt undone and levered up out of the hole of course).

Getting the tracking checked tomorrow, probably no harm anyway, hit enough potholes since I got it done last, bound to be out a little without replacing the track rod end.

[CJ]

The lock nut goes clockwise, a turn or two and then the track rod end comes very easy then, screwing off anticlockwise (once you have the bottom bolt undone and levered up out of the hole of course)

Old thread alert.

Kevin, do you need a ball joint splitter to remove the TRE from the chassis? I tried removing the same last week with no luck but I did use the opportunity to grease up all joints with WD40.

CJ

[Wildhound]

I used a ball joint splitter when I did it but I happened to have one on hand. Certainly the easiest way!

[CJ]

I used a ball joint splitter when I did it but I happened to have one on hand. Certainly the easiest way!

Cheer WH, think I saw one in Halfords last time I dropped in, must get one...

CJ

[kevinod]

The lock nut goes clockwise, a turn or two and then the track rod end comes very easy then, screwing off anticlockwise (once you have the bottom bolt undone and levered up out of the hole of course)

Old thread alert.

Kevin, do you need a ball joint splitter to remove the TRE from the chassis? I tried removing the same last week with no luck but I did use the opportunity to grease up all joints with WD40.

CJ

Em, you mean separate the track rod end (screw on bit with the ball joint on it about 25cm in length) from the part it sits in at the wheel end? I used a kinda wedge type tool, goes in either side of the shaft coming out of the ball joint (no smutty comments plz! ) and basically the more you push it on it forces the ball joint up. Only thing is, in doing so it squeezes the grease out of the ball joint boot, thus rendering it unusable.

I'll find the tool and take a pic...

[kevinod]

Actually just dawned on me google search is my friend...

Yup, those ball joint splitters would do the job. What I used was kinda like the ball joint splitter forks, a bit more crude but gets the job done.

[CJ]

Tried to get the locking undone this evening without any luck (despite a liberal spraying of WD40 a few weeks ago), my meagre spanner collection wasn't up to the job. Gave 'em another shot of the '40 in preperation for another go tomorrow. Had no bother getting the TRE out of the hub mind you (thanks to the newly aquired ball joint splitter).

CJ

[gary d]

The lock nut goes clockwise, a turn or two and then the track rod end comes very easy then, screwing off anticlockwise (once you have the bottom bolt undone and levered up out of the hole of course)

Old thread alert.

Kevin, do you need a ball joint splitter to remove the TRE from the chassis? I tried removing the same last week with no luck but I did use the opportunity to grease up all joints with WD40.

CJ

Yes CJ you will require a balljoint splitter, should be able to pick one up for less than a tenner. I presume you are replacing the TRE's as using the BJS can damage the rubber boot on TRE. good thinkin soaking everything in WD should make life easier

[CJ]

Yes CJ you will require a balljoint splitter

Had no bother getting the TRE out of the hub mind you (thanks to the newly aquired ball joint splitter).

CJ

[gary d]

All this He said, She said, I said. is bloody confusing

[escu_calin]

Tried to get the locking undone this evening without any luck (despite a liberal spraying of WD40 a few weeks ago), my meagre spanner collection wasn't up to the job. Gave 'em another shot of the '40 in preperation for another go tomorrow. Had no bother getting the TRE out of the hub mind you (thanks to the newly aquired ball joint splitter).

CJ

can any of u who did this ugly job post some pictures?
i have no freaking idea what a ball splitter is .. anyway cant figure out its uses from a Google images search !

and the bottom line is .. after a wd40 spray and 100000 curses; i can not get the tier rod end out so i can change the steering gaiter,,, arrgh

il go buy again gloves and more wd40 .. and by then you better post some pictures or im gonna hammer that thing out )

[CJ]

You'll need a ball joint splitter before attempting this job, they're about a tenner in Halfords:



Note the the TRE will most likely be unusable afterwards, get spares.

A spray of WD40 the day before will help a lot, once the TRE is out of the hub, its just a matter of unscrewing from the track rod. To stop the TR turning when removing the end, apply opposite pressure with a wrench or vice grips.

CJ

[escu_calin]

don't get me wrong; i unscrewed with ease and separated the track rod end; but i can not get it of the rod
http://camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s583p371
mine does not look like this; meaning it does not have a hexagonal grip on rod end.. and can not get a good grip (mine is new.. just a couple of months old) soaked it in wd but it wont let go .. gave it another try today.. i'm beat by the red monster

the ball joint splitter i guess gets the bolt out of the wheel hub.. but i do not need it...

[Bernard]

Are yours more like these?
I got them from Camskill just over a week ago and they're different to the ones listed on the site.
Hopefully they won't be too much trouble when it's time to change again.

[escu_calin]

yes .. are like those .. and they killed 2 afternoons of my life

[CJ]

In that case, you need a wrench to remove them. Have you got the retaining nuts off (remember, clockwise to remove as per above).

CJ

[escu_calin]

In that case, you need a wrench to remove them. Have you got the retaining nuts off (remember, clockwise to remove as per above).

CJ

so basically i must hold the TRE with a wrench and try to rotate clockwise (i can see from the thread direction which way it releases) the holding nut?

[CJ]

1. Stick a wrench on the rod to stop it from moving.
2. Use a spanner on the retaining nut, turn clockwise to loosen
3. Get another wrench on the TRE, turn anti-clockwise, ensure wrench is still on rod so as it doesn't move when you loosen the TRE.
4. Be patient! It will come off eventually....

CJ

[escu_calin]

1. Stick a wrench on the rod to stop it from moving.
2. Use a spanner on the retaining nut, turn clockwise to loosen
3. Get another wrench on the TRE, turn anti-clockwise, ensure wrench is still on rod so as it doesn't move when you loosen the TRE.
4. Be patient! It will come off eventually....

CJ

patience i keep for spare in a jar..
buuut the metal is wearing from trying .. and i can not risk further damage.. i will upgrade my weapons and i will thank you after i'm finished

[escu_calin]

darn bugger
i got the track rod out and changed the gaiter.. i also sticked loads of grease onto the steering rack arm..

lithium grease... is it goood?

*edit
from what i read on grease.. the petroleum based ones are know from modifying the rubber structure thus leading to seals, O rings, gaiters premature failure.
the alternative is suggested to be the silicone grease(white) which has a different structure and is known to be inert, thus it does not react with rubber/oils/etc and has very high operating temperatures.

bottomline .. what grease are u using lads in my above situation?

[escu_calin]

.. and thanks for the extremely useful hints ... to bad i have the bruises
this job set me back ~40 squids ... in tools, not counting the gaiters!

How much you think a mechanic would charge ?