MIVEC Not Working

[Kace]

Just noticed in the last few days that my MIVEC is no longer kicking in. After some searching and base level checking I have drawn a blank. Anyone got any other suggestions for checks that I should be doing to diagnose ?

I've done the following so far :

- Engine diagnostic. No error codes shown
- Checked engine oil levels - fine


I'm going to do the following :

- Check alternator charging - using terminal disconnection test
- Check to see if anything is loose around the Throttle Position Sensor

The only other thing that I have noticed is that there is a sort of whirring sound that has arrived recently when putting foot on accelerator.

Any additional ideas anyone ???

[Kace]

Worked out today that the MIVEC works once car is initially warmed up a little but it stops working 10-15 mins later. So basically I get a GPX for the first 10 mins of all my journeys and then I switch to a GR

Any MIVEC experts out there with suggestions as to next steps ?

[Sgt_Major]

Not really knowing much here, but you checked all the engine temps etc?

[Kace]

Not really knowing much here, but you checked all the engine temps etc?

I have kept an eye on the standard temperature gauge in the car which is reading as normal (needle is just below half way when warmed up - as it has always been).

Is there another way to check engine / oil temperatures ?

[gary d]

could be a fault with the engine temp sensor signal to ecu, as ordinarily mivec wont engage until engine has reached normal operating temperature. I'm plucking at straws here, one for the experts me thinks

[Kace]

could be a fault with the engine temp sensor signal to ecu, as ordinarily mivec wont engage until engine has reached normal operating temperature. I'm plucking at straws here, one for the experts me thinks

Hmmm that doesn't explain why it works initially when just warmed up, then stops working minutes later when the engine is actually heated up further.

[CJ]

Faulty sensors should show up on a diagnostic check.

Kace, the most common cause (as you alluded to) is a faulty alternator. Have you disconnected the earth to battery with the engine running to see if the engine cuts out?

CJ

[Kace]

Faulty sensors should show up on a diagnostic check.

Kace, the most common cause (as you alluded to) is a faulty alternator. Have you disconnected the earth to battery with the engine running to see if the engine cuts out?

CJ

Doing that check tonight so will let you know how I get on.

[gary d]

I've noticed the alternator mentioned time and again as a cause for Mivec not engaging. Can anyone offer an explanation as to how the alternator effects the Mivec, I'm not disputing this is often the cause but I would like to better understand what effect it has

[CJ]

Can anyone offer an explanation as to how the alternator effects the Mivec

Mivec alternators are 4 pin, all other models are (usually) 2 pin. The secondary set of pins provide power to the oil valve actuation unit, this requires additional power when the high lift cams come into play (aka Mivec). If the circuit is faulty or the alternator isn't charging, Mivec you will not have.

CJ

[gary d]

Cheers, I knew the mivec profile on the cam was actuated by oil pressure thats why I couldn't understand what bearing the alternator had on the equation. Now it's explained I see now. simples

[Kace]

Failed the alternator test - car died when I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.

Do you guys normally buy a new alternator from Camskill or is there any good places in Dublin that recondition - is it worth reconditioning vs buying new ?

I also hear that you need to provide Camskill with your old alternator before they send you the replacement - is this true ?

[CJ]

Failed the alternator test - car died when I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.

Probably the diode pack or rectifier on the way out if thats the case.

Do you guys normally buy a new alternator from Camskill or is there any good places in Dublin that recondition - is it worth reconditioning vs buying new ?

I also hear that you need to provide Camskill with your old alternator before they send you the replacement - is this true ?

I use Blanch Auto Electric for starter / alt recon but he's probably too far out for you (I can recommend them though). Any autoelectrician will be able to recon the alt, some will complain about it being inacessable (at which point you tell them to go in thru the offside wheel arch).

CJ

[Kace]

CJ - you mentioned in a previous post that an alternator recon will cost about 150-200 EUR. Is this from experience with the guys at blanch - did you get them to do one for you ?

If so, how long would you need to leave the car there for ?

[jayod12b]

Hi kace

Had the same problem meself reasonally with my mivec, turned out it was the diode pack in the alternator
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9466

I purchased one off ebay from this crowd and its 100% and i didnt need to post my old one over,

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/japtecl ... &_osacat=0
Not sure if they have any in stock right now but id say they will.

Unit i recieved from them looked brand new with test charts and a warranty for good quality,
Definitely worth goin this way in stead of messing around with reconditoning for the bit extra u will pay,
Thats what ive learnt

[Kace]

Thanks - I will try these guys to see if they have any coming on stream.

[Kace]

Check out the prices for new units from this guy

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MITSUBISHI-FTO-GPX-ALTERNATOR-NEW-UNIT_W0QQitemZ150349838429QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item23018c785d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

He's got some negative feedback but lots of positive also. Great price for a new unit TBH.

[jayod12b]

Yea i was looking at those aswell,
Was goina send it on but taught id give u the crowd i dealt with first..
They look actually good and the last 2 months hes sold mainly fto alternators and all postive feedback
90 pounds is deadly!
Ask how much he wants for postage japtec charged 15 pounds,
When u compared this price to a mitsubishi garage i reasonally gota quote from for the same item

Hi Jason,
Is your FTO a mivec? If so I can get an exchange unit. The cost would be 250+vat which works out at 303 euro.It would take me about 2 days to get it and i would need your old one returned. Postage usually costs about 12euro.If I can be of any further assistance drop me an email or give me a calll
Regards

Taking the piss or what

[CJ]

CJ - you mentioned in a previous post that an alternator recon will cost about 150-200 EUR. Is this from experience with the guys at blanch - did you get them to do one for you ?

If so, how long would you need to leave the car there for ?

Yes, they did the work. IN my case, I had to leave the car there for 2 days becase they were flay out (they always are).

If the shipping is reasonable on that ebay alt, I'd snap it up. Looks like a steal....

CJ

[colm_mcm]

Getting the alternator out is a pig of a job. getting it back in is even more difficult. good luck!

[jayod12b]

As colm said its an awkward job alrite taking it out and replacing it,
Ive done mine at least 6 times at this stage got it down to hour all in but easy when uve done it that many times,
Heres a how to if your thinking of trying it kace.


Open bonnet and disconnect battery then disconnect Multi block and Main feed wire from alternator,

Release tension from alternator belt and slip off from alt pulley and remove top alternator fixing bolt.

Jack up OSf wheel and remove (use axle stand),

Remove the two large bolts holding strut to hub and push hub and drive shaft forward to the front of the car (being careful not to pull shaft from gearbox or inner cv cup) and wedge or tie in place.

From the wheel arch reach under the alternator and remove the lower fixing bolt nut just visible (nut on inside), leave the bolt and alternator in place for now.

Place trolley jack with a large flat piece of wood under the sump and slowly jack up (only just so to take the weight of the engine, not lift it).

Undo and remove the OS engine mount bolt (may require adjustment of the jack holding the engine),
now raise the jack 30mm to 50mm.

From the wheel arch reach in to the alternator and wriggle it free,

and jiggle it downwards and out through the gap out into the wheel arch,

This may require rotating the alternator,
pushing the hub further forward or raising the engine a little more (not too much) it will come out easily when right.

Some strut braces may need to be removed to allow the engine to be raised high enough (this depends on type and if you have TC) and you may find it easier releasing the steering arm ball joint from hub but it can be done without)

If you have after market down pipes without a flexi section you may need to disconnect the exhaust joint at the cat.

Replacement is a reversal of the above procedure.

It is also recommended you check to see if you have the correct replacement alternator before hand
(four pin or two etc...).

[Kace]

Jay - thanks a heap for the instructions. Can someone (Mod) put this up into the Knowledgebase ?

Unfortunately I do not have the time / tools nor patience to try this on my own. Wil be enlisting services of Paul N for this one so that I can enjoy the sunshine in peace

I contacted the guy re the alternator and he is charging £30 to ship to Ireland so the total cost would be £120 as opposed to the £145 from the other crowd.

Given that this is a new item (and cheaper) I am going to buy from him. I'll let you know how I get on.

K

[colm_mcm]

Jay - thanks a heap for the instructions. Can someone (Mod) put this up into the Knowledgebase ?

Did about an hour ago

Jay, Next time you're doing the job, will you take a few pics for the KB thread?

[Kace]

Re-incarnating this thread.....

Noticed my alternator was on its way out (again) after only having replaced it with a new unit only 18 months ago (previous OEM unit had lasted me 10 years). I was quoted €140 to refurb the unit so opted to buy another one brand new delivered for €100.

After installation the mechanic indicated to me that the alternator didn't seem to be very highly powered as when stationary with lights and fan etc. on, it's just about able to charge the battery. I didn't think anything of this as I bought exactly the same unit from the same eBay seller as I had done before and it worked fine, even through a couple of heavy winters.

I have however noticed that low and behold, Mr Mivec is not working, which in FTOs tends to point back to the alternator. Does anyone know whether it's possible to cock anything up when installing the alternator, like forgetting to plug something in, or connecting something the wrong way around perhaps ? Is there just a single connector for the alternator when installed or could the mechanic have missed something ?

Not sure where to go with this now apart from source another alternator and have this installed ? I think that the OEM unit potentially has a higher output than the 80A unit that I bought.

Anyone got any suggestions ?

Also, can everyone take a quick look at your voltmeters for me when you're stationary in traffic with an indicator on - do you get this effect ???

From Youtube.com

[Kace]

Guys - can anyone help me out here and confirm whether your voltmeter moves slightly when the indicator is on when stationary in traffic?

See YouTube clip for details above.

Also, when your car is off and you turn the key into the position before the starter engages, what voltage does your voltmeter read ? Mine reads 12v on the button.

I'm trying to confirm whether my newly installed brand new alternator is working correctly.

Thanks.