Rev counter not working

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Rev counter not working

Postby colm_mcm » Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:33 am

as the title suggests, it's not working. is this common, is there anything that can be done apart from replacing the clocks?
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Postby Sebastian » Tue Jul 24, 2007 1:36 am

it's only that that's not working ?
take them out and have a look ( easy - just 2 screws holding the plastic surround - and after 4 of them holding the clocks ), maybe a faulty connection it's all that it is :roll:
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Postby Muad_dib77 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:18 am

Yeah - 1st port of call is checking the connections - removed the unit - have a look for obvious problems (dirty connectors) - clean them up - then fit the back into the sockets and see whan happens - also try pushing lightly on the front of the unit - sometimes that's all you need.

Alternatively I saw a speedo cluster from a 4speed tip on eBay the other day - it might well still be there.

Congrats on the purchase mate - well wear!
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Postby colm_mcm » Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:10 pm

thanks, wil look at it when installing new headunit (If it arrives!)
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Postby ftolam13 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 2:21 pm

i had that problem when i bought the second FTO. i had to change the whole clock.
if you still had control, you haven't been fast enough 8)
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Postby colm_mcm » Tue Jul 24, 2007 8:09 pm

I presume all the dials come as a single unit?
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Postby Myfeckin FTO » Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:31 pm

Do you have aftermarket dials? If so they may have damaged the needle when changing the dial - or it may just be stuck - as mentioned its easy peasy to take out the dials and have a look.
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Postby colm_mcm » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:15 pm

nah, dials have been left standard. the gear lights on the rev counter work, and the dial illuminates too, just no movement on the dial. will investigate soon. kinda annoying when you're trying to redline it without hopping off the limiter!
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Postby Muad_dib77 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:12 pm

Yeah that is frustrating alright- after a couple of days you'll know the sound though..even quicker if you do longer journeys..

Think of it as a challenge - focus on the road - know exactly when to change..you don't want to be flying around the track looking at your rev counter anyways ;-)

Tips do move - they're fast!
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Postby rookie » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:46 pm

If it's just the rev counter not working try changing the Ignition Failure Sensor, (IFS).

had the same problem with mine, a second hand one shouldn't cost a lot. No more than 20 - 30 £UK from a breaker.

How to find the ignition failure sensor......

1. Looking from the from of the engine on the right there is a 4" diameter black pipe running from the air filter to the throttle housing. It is held on by 2 jubilee clips, one at each end. There is a small hose 4" attached in the middle. Remove this pipe in toto.

2. Again from the front, just to the left of the air filter box, there is a tall 1" vertical metal pipe with a silver filler cap. Just behind this at the base is a small black box, about 1.5" square with a 4pin plug attached, bolted to the engine with 2 bolts (I think 10mm). This is the ignition failure sensor. Be careful removing the 4 pin plug, it has a securing wire which must be unclipped and pulled up before the plug can be removed.

How to check if IFS is u/s.......using a multimeter....

1. Remove clock console to reveal 2 multi-pin plugs. Start engine.
2. Looking at the left plug (C05) locate pin 18 (bottom row 5 in from left-white wire)
3. Set multimeter to read more than 5V. Put +ve probe to this pin and -ve probe to earth. (Use bolt in centre of console recess for convenience)
4. If multimeter does not read 5V then the problem is IFS or wire from IFS to dial console....stop engine..
5. Set multimeter to measure continuity. Remove IFS multiplug and locate white wire (2nd right as you look at it, best to strip back some of the cable covering to locate).
6. Put 1 probe into pin 2 of the connector (harness side) and the other to C05 pin18). You should hear a tone if the wiring is ok. If not then there is a break....(good luck in finding it...best to put a new wire in.)

If you wish you can check the continuity of wiring from the ecu to the IFS by probing ecu pin 51(white wire)...not pin 58 as book says...to pin 2 on IFS multiplug. Not really necessary unless you have a break.

If you don't have a multimeter......just change the IFS...and hopefully voila! Rev counter working.
BTW....lots of Mitsi garages are saying this fault is associated with the ecu. I went down this route and fortunately it wasn't expensive as I have sold the ecu on.

hopt this helps.

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Postby bogins » Tue Aug 07, 2007 4:39 pm

i had the same problem with mine till i changed the IFS last week. its easy to replace ( took about 10 mins )
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Postby colm_mcm » Tue Aug 07, 2007 4:56 pm

how much is a new IFS? and is it easy to get?
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Postby RiceRocketUk » Tue Aug 21, 2007 10:43 am

IFS is a common problem, we sell new ones at £38+PP :wink:
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Postby colm_mcm » Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:54 pm

Thanks, but ordered one already.
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