Front fog-light switch fix

[steelroe]

As we all know the OEM fog switch is prone to melting and needs replacement.
Note: You need a good working fog switch for this to work. But you will only ever need one as this prevents the switch from ever burning out again

The easiest way to overcome this problem occuring again is to fit a standard 4 pin fused (10A) relay.

Tools required

Wire cutters
Fused relay (available at any motor factors)
Insulating Tape
Crimp Connectors.

Remove the dial surround and fog switch. The fog switch connector has the following wires

Red/Black - Fog Light +12v Supply
Red - Fog Light Switch Wire
Black/Yellow - Ground
Green/Orange - Dash illumination +12V
Green/Black - Dash illumination Switch Wire
Green/White -Fog switch Illumination (bulb in fog switch)


Make connections as follows:
Take care not to allow live wires not to rub off the body (you can remove the fog fuse if you prefer)
Using a tap in connector connect one end of the relay coil to the black/yellow wire.
Next cut the red wire approx 4 inches from the connector. Connect the end attached to the connector to the other end of the relay coil.

Now connect the other end of the red wire to one end of the normally open relay contacts.

Lastly connect the other end of the normally open contact to the Red/Black wire of the connector.

Now your fog switch is only switching the relay coil so there is no load on the switch.


Pics to follow.

[miss-enzo]

cool!!!! i was wonderin how to do this!!!

[Muad_dib77]

Hey Rory - I've stuck this in the Kbase - any chance of a pic?

Also I'm assuming this will work with pretty much any illuminated switch?

[steelroe]

Can take a few pics later today if the rain eases off.

[Sebastian]

will try this in the weekend , so any pics would be helpful

[steelroe]

Forgot sorry.
Will do first thing tomorrow mornin

[steelroe]

[steelroe]

Will try to expalin the connecting as clear as possible.
I used a relay from one of the FTO's i have for breaking but any standard 12v (min 15A) relay with a normally open contact will do. If you get a fused relay it will make things slighly quicker (15a fuse)

On the relay I used the 2 heavy Black wires are the normally open contacts and the light wires are the coil connections.

Pic 5 Cut the Red/Black wire of the FOG connector (approx 3-4 inches from the connector block. Using a tap connector connect the RED/Black wire to the Green/Orange wire of the connector.
Connect the other end of the Red/Black wire to one end of the normally open (NO) contacts of the relay

Pic 7 Using a tap connector, connect one end of the relay coil to the Black/Yellow wire of the fog connector.

Pic 6 Cut the Red wire of the FOG connector (approx 3-4 inches from the connector block. Connect the RED wire on the connector to the other end of the relay coil.
Connect the other end of the Red wire to the other end of the normally open (NO) contacts of the relay.

Connections are all done, now connect you fog switch and test. When you now switch on the fogs the OEM switch is only energising the relay coil, therefore ther is only a very small power draw through the switch, no overheating.
THe light are still powered by the same circuit but the switch is protected.

Any questions please feel free to ask.

[mivecmad27]

So I take it from the pics you used the same burnt block connector

[steelroe]

connector was fine just browned from overheating. Switch is the issue.

[cmasterson]

thanks for this, very helpful

[odec]

Hi,

Thanks for your help,i just go the relay how do i know the terminals i.e Positive or Negative?