Fto 1.8 fuel pump

[ftokl]

Hi all, I have an fto 1.8 95 that wont start.
I've tracked it down to the fuel pump, and tested it using the method in the workshop manual and there is no noise so can only assume its dead.

I'm reluctant to spend the main dealer price of €431 !! (that includes the whole unit)

My question is, Will a galant (or other mitsu) pump do the job?

The pump has six wires on the unit connector block, not the two wire type.

Cheers, Keith.

[d_dan]

shouldnt they all work?

if not get a walbro one more effivient and cheaper

[Myfeckin FTO]

As per Dan - try camskill for an uprated Walbro pump. Should work out a lot cheaper.

[ftokl]

Thanks for the quick replies

Camskill have one for the v6, I guess thats the same as the 1.8 pump.

Just have to take the old one out now... thats one tight bolt on the fuel line.

Keep Crusin'!
K

[Myfeckin FTO]

............
Camskill have one for the v6, I guess thats the same as the 1.8 pump.

.

It may not be - best bet is to ring Mike in camskill and check.

[steelroe]

I have plenty of pumps available just give me a call

086 6029362

[steelroe]

I would suggest you disconnect the main fuel pipe on the injection rail and put it into a container. The switch on your ignition and see if petrol flows out.
The wire ar for power to the pump andthe fuel level sender.

You could put power direct to the pump also.

It may be the fuel pump relay, this is located in the area behind the stereo console on the 2.0 Litre, reckon it would be gthe same on the 1.8.

[ftokl]

Hi Steelroe,
Took out the pump and wired it up and its working :/ Guess I couldn't hear it when it was in the tank. I really should have just disconnected the line on the fuel rail like you said - much handier.

Basically over the past 2 months it wouldn't start approx 4 times. All happening when the motor was warm, or after a short drive.
2 of those times, it would start and drive a few feet, then splutter to a halt, taking from 10 mins to a few hours before it would start again.
On the 4th time, spluttered to a halt after a few feet, and hasn't started since. Had to tow it home!

I should note that 2 days before, I went through a flood/big puddle too fast. This screwed the alternator until I cleaned the contacts and let the engine bay dry out for a day or two.

I have put new battery in, reset the ecu, checked the spark, starter cables, alternator, belts, fuses, sprayed/cleaned all connectors in the eng bay.

She'll turn but it like its not getting fuel.

I'll give the relay a go tomorrow. Was thinking injectors also...

[steelroe]

Sound like you may have injested water through the air intake into the engine. You need to do a compression test. I dont have wiring diagrams for the 1.8 unfortunately.

[ftokl]

Sound like you may have injested water through the air intake into the engine. You need to do a compression test. I dont have wiring diagrams for the 1.8 unfortunately.

Would water in the air intake/engine be serious?

The car was having trouble starting before I hit the flood. And ran for a few days after that. So its hard to know whether that caused the problem.

I also used the dash diagnostic and the light just flashes at 60hz. Which, I think, indicates no errors...

[Sebastian]

Would water in the air intake/engine be serious?..

http://www.fto-ireland.com/forum/phpBB2 ... php?t=8582

[ftokl]

Hi All... I've replaced the fuel pump and theres still no fuel getting to the fuel rail. (For reference the 1.8 and v6 pumps are the same)

This has made me reconsider the 'N' light flashing problem and rechecked the diagnosis codes, this time instead of the N light flashing, I got errors 36 and 55, which are for the DCC solinoid valve, or the AT relay respectivly.(checked the relay and its fine)

These are 'fail safe codes' meaning that the AT/ECU has gone into fail safe mode, there-by disabling ignition.

So I cleaned all the connectors on the AT box again, and rechecked the diagnosis. Now its reverted back to the N light flashing at 1hz, which is a fail safe code meaning the AT oil has overheated --- or a dodgy Oil Temp Sensor!

So to check the AT Oil temp sensor, I need to open the 'valve cover body'.
It is sealed with a gasket type sealant and a bit of oil came out when I loosened a few bolts.

Does anyone know if I need to drain the oil in the AT box fully to open the valve body cover?

[CJ]

These are 'fail safe codes' meaning that the AT/ECU has gone into fail safe mode, there-by disabling ignition.

An AT box in safe mode will not disable ignition, you should still be able to start and drive the car (albeit stuck in 3rd). Is the engine light flashing out a code? Seems like you have 2 seperate issues - gearbox sensors and ignition.

Are you getting spark? Have you check the coil etc? Is the fuel pump getting power, is it engaging? If everything checks out, I'd consider dropping in a second ECU, you should be able to get one from steelroe for reasonable money.

CJ

[ftokl]

Hi CJ,
Thanks for your help Its good to know I should be able to start the car anyway.

Are you getting spark? Have you check the coil etc? Is the fuel pump getting power, is it engaging? If everything checks out, I'd consider dropping in a second ECU, you should be able to get one from steelroe for reasonable money.

Im getting spark, starter is turning, power, earth and relay on the fuel pump seem ok. I replaced the fuel pump with a new one, still no go.

So I disconnected the main fuel input to the fuel rail and turned the engine, no fuel came out, nothing.

No engine diagnosis code, the light is just flashing at 1/sec. I think that indicates no errors.

I did have a suspicion re. a dodgy ECU... maybe its time to throw in a different one.

[CJ]

So I disconnected the main fuel input to the fuel rail and turned the engine, no fuel came out, nothing.

No engine diagnosis code, the light is just flashing at 1/sec. I think that indicates no errors.

Wire the pump up to a direct 12V feed to see if you get fuel. did you check before or after the fuel filter (has the latter been changed at any point?). 1hz flash frequency means all engine sensors are operating normally, I reckon your problem is something more fundemental. As I undertand it, the fuel system is pressurised, the pump will continue to operate even when no fuel is being injected into the cylinders (this keeps the system at the required pressure). Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

I wonder is the fuel line after getting a bang and deforming to the extent that the line is blocked?

CJ

[ftokl]

Wire the pump up to a direct 12V feed to see if you get fuel. did you check before or after the fuel filter (has the latter been changed at any point?). 1hz flash frequency means all engine sensors are operating normally, I reckon your problem is something more fundemental. As I undertand it, the fuel system is pressurised, the pump will continue to operate even when no fuel is being injected into the cylinders (this keeps the system at the required pressure). Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

I'll try wiring the pump direct to battery tomorrow...

I checked the manual and a fuel pressure test should read 256kPa, mine is 0


I checked the fuel after the filter, before the fuel rail.
I dont know if the fuel filter has ever been changed, I actually got one with the pump, so I may as well throw that in, although I understand thats a b@$%h of a job.

I should also visually inspect the fuel line for damage...

[steelroe]

I would suspect the fuel filter is blocked. Are you sure the pump is running. Take off the inlet pipe to the filter and see if you have fuel to there.

The following pages are from the 2.0 wiring but would be very similar to the 1.8. Have you checked the fuel pump relay.





on another point has anyone ever come across wiring diagrams for the GS.

[steelroe]

As CJ said the flashing "N" will not prevent starting.

[steelroe]

Easiest way to get power direct to the pump is remove the fuel pump relay and short across the contact pins in the fue box. THis will will start the pump up. If not then either you have a wiring electrical prob, or faulty pump 9but that is working.
If the pump starts the there is something wrong with the engaging circuit.

[steelroe]

Filter is much easier on the 1.8, more room

[ftokl]

Hi steelroe,
I checked the + and - terminals to the pump, and its getting voltage when the key is turned. I guess that means the relay is working also.
Its looking more like the fuel filter, I'll stick in the new one tomorrow and cross fingers.

I brought the car to a mitsu garage and ran mut-2 diags. The engine checked out ok and so did the fuel relay and pump tests.

His system couldnt read the AT sensors at all (in speed/out speed and oil temp). although we could see the gears switching on screen. Is the AT/ECU a seperate unit to the engine ECU ?

[steelroe]

Engine and A/T ECU seperate but if he was able to read the Engine ECU then he should be able to read all faults. Same diag connector for both.

[ftokl]

Hi all,
I finally found the problem, it was the alarm relay for the fuel pump! :/
Bypassed that and stuck a hidden switch on it for security instead.
Nice to be back in my fto

Thanks for all your invaluable help, much appreciated.
K

[CJ]

Glad you got it sorted. This is a common enough problem, should have thought of it considering I had a similar issue about 6 years ago :?

CJ