Syn wrote:lol.i really need to do mine it sounds like a diesel.im quite mechanicaly minded,just prefer a guide.so i take it u undo the tappet,its locked on,then adjust with the screw and tighten back up yea? Is it easy to work out where the feelers go to get the right clearance? And if im right the exhaust valves are the ones closest to the front of the car and the windscreen?
Yeah, you just use the tool to loosen the tappet, then stick a screw driver down the middle of the tool and adjust the screw which will be unlocked and freely moving. have the car on a ramp or jacked up and have someone turn the wheel in gear while you hold a long screw driver down the 1st spark plug hole. U find the correct position for the cylinder when the screw driver stops moving up and before it begins moving down. i.e. cylinder fully closed if you know what I mean. Then you insert a slider gauge between the normal cam lobe and the lifter. Ensure the silder gauge is set to as required. I think its 0.13 for exhaust and can't remember intake, look it up in manual. adjust screw till the gap is just enough to grip the slider but not to hold it jammed if you know what I mean. thats the correct adjustment. Now use a spanner to lock the tappet while holding the screw in the correctly adjusted position using the screwdriver. The steps are in the workbook manual available form the downloads section of the site here. Reading that guide and my not so good explanation here
you should be able to get the idea. The tappets defo do readjust themselves after a few 1000 k as I was told they would. they were silent when I did it. I mean seriously it was nuts. car sounded so quiet. aftre a while the tappet noise came back a little bit but still 50% quieter than before I did it. I was told by the mechanic this is normal.