Sorting out the small things

[CJ]

When I open the drivers door, it sqeaks, when I corner hard, I get scrubbage on the wheel arches and sometimes the exhaust knocks off the undercarriage, well no more! I spent a few hours today sorting out window guides, securing wheel arches and fixing the exhaust into its hangers, the effect is that all the little annoyances have disappered. Most FTOs out there are 9/10 years old and suffer from the odd creak, knock and the like, the thing is you get used to these things over time. Once I sorted out all of the above, it felt like a new car

Damn, how did I get to be so neurotic

CJ

[rsg]

You feel so much better and it does feel like a new car after sorting the cracks and squeaks.

I too fixed most of the anoyances, but some have come back and now my boot lock is stuffed as well, have to get a new one. The boot simply wouldn't close, so after about 3 hours of finding the problem, we got it closed and now I have to order a lock, and I'm too scared to open it again in case it won't close.

Oh well, there I go rambling on again. Hate to hijack your post, but what kind of power losses could you expect if your lambda stuffs out, CJ?


raf

[CJ]

Hate to hijack your post, but what kind of power losses could you expect if your lambda stuffs out, CJ?

I'd only be guessing rsg, maybe 10-15bhp. If you can't get a measurment of the level of oxygen in the exhaust gases then the ECU will not be able to compensate and ultimately ends up using an incorrect fuel\air mixture.

CJ

[rsg]

Hey CJ,

Thanks for the info, I know my lambda is bust so I will have to sort it out because I'm sure the unichip won't take role of the lambda.

I'm also looking for someone here who will have a MUT tester so I can see if anything else isn't working, and I'm also having the timing checked out, I've come to the conclusion that I don't trust my mechanic that worked on the car before.

But, let's say the the the timing isn't out, and replacing the lambda does only add another 10bhp, what else do you think could result in my great power loss, as my car is only pushing about 93bhp on the wheels? Last night I was anihilated by a Citi Golf Life 1.6!!! I'm clueless and if I don't find anyone with a MUT tester I'm pretty sure I will struggle for ages to find the problem.

Hope you can suggest what could be giving the problem.

Thanks
raf

[Dave]

You sure you're not driving a GS?

[rsg]

Dead sure, I know what the V6 looks like.

[Dave]

just making sure, but it still wouldn't explain why a 1.6 golf would hammer you.
but there is something definitely wrong!! i reckon a change of mechanic is in order!

[Myfeckin FTO]

Raf,

There is something seriously wrong with your car - and to loose that amount of power the problem should be straightforward enough I would imagine any decent mechanic should be able to point out a problem with a lambda or exhaust - did you change the timing belt since you got the car?? What condition are the front and back plugs in?? What filter?? Is it a standard or aftermarket exhaust (what bore?). Is the engine rattling badly? (valves)

It could be a combination of a number of factors like wrong bore on exhaust, burnt plugs, broken lambda, tappets out, - but my guess is thats there is probably a single larger issue.

BTW - If you're looking for a lambda sensor - I believe that the FTO sensor is also common on a few other Mitsub models so should be easy enough to get hold of.

If you have no look then you may need to consider an engine rebuild or better again - a replacement engine.

[CJ]

I'm clueless and if I don't find anyone with a MUT tester I'm pretty sure I will struggle for ages to find the problem.

Raf, why not attempt to output diagnostic codes yourself? Its pretty straightforward:

http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart07.html

CJ

[rsg]

Thanks for all the replies guys!

Heres the story. When I went to that mechanic, I had it serviced there, but the car was very similiar in power before and after. The dyno results were 70bhp on the wheels before I did the exhaust and chip. The mechanic syas this is what he was expecting???? I changed the timing belt, back and front spark plugs and oil filter. I also recently change the fuel filter, but did that myself. Feels smoother, as the last fuel filter was filthy. All the parts are 100% correct, and I know this for a fact. I've also done an air filter which is a Simota Air filter, but I'm sure it did a power increase because I could spin between gears after this, unless it jsu helped with torque. Also changed the oil to shell helix, 15w40.

Once I got the exhaust done it went up to 80BHP on the wheels, and the exhaust is a twin 63ml pipe. THen I did the chip which according to him would also replace the lambda, but I don't think so because the lambda constantly changes the air/fuel mixtures while the chip is mapped once and then it's set, and has to be changed by a mechanic with a dyno. This now put me up to 93bhp, where it currently stands. There is no rattling with valves beside the tappets a bit when it's cold, I'm going to put a thicker grade oil to sort it out, but otherwise the car is very quiet.

Thanks for the link CJ, will do this asap, I just wasn't sure how originally because I couldn't find the link. And i'll also look for a lambda here, as one from camskill works out to almost R4000 here, and I could get a new one here for about R1800 or less.

So thats the story one my car.

raf

[rsg]

Ok, I've done the diagnosis, had a bit of a problem but then I found it wasn't earthing properly. Anyways the error code was 12, meaning that the Air flow sensor is screwed!

Now is the Airflow Sensor the one connected to the air pipe just after the air filter or what? If this is, then how come the car still stalls when I disconnected and it won't idle?

Anyways, now I know for a fact that that mechanic was talking shi* for f*** sake, because the lambda is showing no error codes! At least he didn't screw me over in any way with money...

Now if this sensor doesn't sort out the power problem, then it'll have to be timing or otherwise I have no Idea.

Comments anyone?

raf

[soc]

Ok, I've done the diagnosis, had a bit of a problem but then I found it wasn't earthing properly. Anyways the error code was 12, meaning that the Air flow sensor is screwed!

Now is the Airflow Sensor the one connected to the air pipe just after the air filter or what? If this is, then how come the car still stalls when I disconnected and it won't idle?

Anyways, now I know for a fact that that mechanic was talking shi* for f*** sake, because the lambda is showing no error codes! At least he didn't screw me over in any way with money...

Now if this sensor doesn't sort out the power problem, then it'll have to be timing or otherwise I have no Idea.

Comments anyone?

raf

I think you mentioned that you were driving a GR - so it sounds like your MAF might need replacing (that's the airflow meter - the box connected to the air filter) - but I would have thought you would have idling problems if the MAF was dodgy.

[rsg]

I know it should have idling problems so I'm not sure what's going on. Maybe someone else has an Idea?

raf

[CJ]

Maybe someone else has an Idea?

Raf, get yourself a good mechanic!

CJ

[rsg]

I'm trying, it's kinda hard because the fto is so rare here and the only mechanic I found which claimed to know what he was doing was talking crap. My friend suggested someone so I'll have to look into it.

raf

[rsg]

I disconnected my air flow meter yesterday and guess what? The car kept on idling just the same! The f*cking mechanic must of mapped the chip so it overides the air flow meter, meaning it serves no purpose at this time, but I'm not sute that it actually broken.

The car might think its broken when I do a diagnostic, but I think it's the chip causing the confusion. I need to get it mapped again by a proper mechanic and see what happens.

Anyone know what car's might have the same air flow meter just in case or where I could get one?

raf

[CJ]

Anyone know what car's might have the same air flow meter just in case or where I could get one?

The p/n is MD336501 (PNC 11135) , AFAIK, the GS should have the same MAF, at a guess other Mitsis would also use the same part but for some reason, CAPS won't allow me to a model comparison for the part.

CJ

[rsg]

Great, Thanks!

What's CAPS? Wonder why they won't let you? Will look into it anyway.

It's really bothering me at the moment knowing something's with the car and not being able to figure out what.

Thanks CJ.

raf

[steelroe]

Firstly reset the ECU.
Drive for a distance after the reset.
Check for trouble codes again.
If same code is there then MAF sensor may be screwed.

You may not get problem with stalling as it may be fine on idling.
If the air flow sensor is sending the incorrect resistance to the ECU then the Fuel/AIr ratio may be incorrect and massive power may occur.

There is a test procedure in the service manuals for the air flow sensor.

[rsg]

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try.

raf