Changing the water pump

[Aido C]

I found a replacement engine but my transport fell through so I'm now looking at fixing this one.
I'm looking for guidelines on how to do change the water pump. I seen the tread on changing the cambelt but the photos were gone off it so it didn't make too much sense to me.
A guide on how to do this would be a great help and save me a lot of scratching head time.

Is there any other parts that I should change while I'm in there? I took the cambelt cover off today and and the belt looks brand new. No sign of any wear at all on it.
Thanks guys.

[Aido C]

I found this tread on how to do it.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2444&p=14641&hilit=change+water+pump#p14641

Have many of you taken this on yourselves?

[karlf]

Never done it myself. But having had a water pump changed before (more than once over the years) the other bits that were done at the same time were the timing belt, the power steering belt and the alternator belt. Its recommended you change all the belts and the water pump at the same time. You say your timing belt is ok so I'd definately change the other 2 (they are about €15 each and are available in southside motor factors, camskill etc), but would advise you do the timing belt as it is probably the only way you will know for definate when it would be due for a change (ie when its done the recommended milage). Its probably an added expense you could do without (in these recessionary times), but if possible I would do it to be on the safe side. It would cost a lot more to repair the damage done by a timing belt snapping.
I did the alternator belt and the p/s belt myself (with a little guidence from my cousin {a mechanic}) so if I can do it you sould have no problem. Locate the tensioner pulleys (iirc there is one for each belt one to the front and one to the back, easy to identify as they are smooth and the others have grooves in them), loosen the bolt holding it in place (if possible mark its postion or count how many turns it takes to get it off this will allow you to get the same tension on the new ones) take off the old belts (if they are still on it) taking note of the route/which pulleys they go around. Put the new belts on and re-tighten the bolt on each tensioner pulley that holds it in place. Do a search I think there is a guide for doing the ps and alternator belts.

[karlf]

Part numbers for the belts:
4PK948 Alternator belt
6PK1070 Power steering belt

And a guide on how to change them here:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/therealbatfink/belts.html

[Aido C]

I finished off the water pump job there today. What a PIG of a job. But I now I know how to do a timing belt so was defo a good learning experience. It looks like the head gaskets might be okay. The condensation only seemed to build up on the oil cap when the engine was cold. Once heated up it was okay. I only took it for a short drive cause I still have the engine light on that gave me code 41 so theres still something up with the injectors. Short circuit or open circuit probably. Hopefully that's the reason the mivec is not working? Some sort of fail safe? I'm gonna bring the car to an auto electrician in the next day or two.

Can wait to be back on the road properly again and drive the bag out of it