Batery light

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Batery light

Postby JD » Wed Feb 02, 2005 2:03 pm

Turning up Tinkers Hill (very sharp turn) at low speed today suddenly heard a strange whirring noise from the engine and my battery light started to glow. Has been glowing at different intensities ever since (when I'm at 70 it doesn't glow at all). I can hear the whirring noise all the time now, and it increases in pitch as I rev - although it’s not very loud.

Checked the belts, all are tight and in place.

When I stopped the car and started the engine up again the passenger window came down about an inch on its own, when pressed the button to pull it back UP it went DOWN all by itself, and stayed locked down for about twenty minutes :roll:

I reckon the alternator may be on its way out, what do you think? If it is does anyone know where I can get a reconditioned one that wont break the bank?

Cheers
JD
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Postby Myfeckin FTO » Wed Feb 02, 2005 2:47 pm

Sounds like an alternator problem alright - the noise will increase in pitch the further you put your foot on the throttle. Seems to be quite a common problem with FTOs once they reach a certain age. Don't know how that would cause your window to unwind though.

Its unlikely that the alternator is an FTO only model though - there must be other Mitsubs that have the same type.

Have you tried Steelroe? I can PM you his tel no if you like.
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Postby CJ » Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:20 pm

Myfeckin FTO wrote:Its unlikely that the alternator is an FTO only model though - there must be other Mitsubs that have the same type.


According to CAPS, the FTO alternator is model specific (There are 3 in total, GR\GS, GPX pre facelift, GPX facelift)
JD, find yourself an autoelectrician, they'lll be able to tell pretty quickly is its the alternator. It may just need to be reconned (new diode pack and brushes).

You could try the following (at your own risk!) Start the car and let it idle for a minute, then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, if the car cuts out, then your alternator is not producing any current and is at fault.

CJ

Edited: changed positive to negative
Last edited by CJ on Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Mustang » Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:28 pm

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Postby JD » Thu Feb 03, 2005 10:40 am

Thanks for the help guys. It's definitly the alternator that's causing the problem, I got it down to an auto electrcian in Maynooth who checked it out and he's gonna strip it out and re-condition it. I hope to have it back tomorrow. I'ts €160 to get it recon'd and whatever the labour is to get it out - (I've read the other thread on this where Miles Balf charged four or five hundred for the labour :shock: - so I'll let you know how I get on).
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Postby JD » Fri Feb 04, 2005 5:21 pm

Just got it back now, he had the car from Yesterday morning and has just finished now at 4.00pm, so two full days to get it out, get the parts (he had to wait for one part until this morning), re-con it and put it back in the car. This was the first FTO he'd done.

Total cost €280 - €160 to re-condition it and €120 labour - That doesn't sound too bad to me! what do you think?

It was O'Neills AutoElectrics in Maynooth (01-6286611)
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Postby CJ » Fri Feb 04, 2005 6:52 pm

JD wrote:Total cost €280 - €160 to re-condition it and €120 labour - That doesn't sound too bad to me! what do you think?


Sounds reasonable considering he hadn't done the job on an FTO before, I had the same work done for €240 all in and it took him a day. Any idea what the problem was, diode pack, brushes etc?

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Postby raymond.harper » Wed Feb 09, 2005 6:21 pm

Had the car been in the UK the cost would have been 150 UK pounds to recondition without adding labour to remove and replace so you got your one quite cheap
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