changing rear rusted brake discs

[funkygreendogs]

Hi All,

I have taken off the rear callipers and bracket, one the brake pads was absolutely in pieces and was rusted on at the back, the brake disc itself is pretty badly rusted. Its just on one side tho - I got new rear brake discs and brakepads from camskill. But the problem I have is that the brake disc will not pop off at all, i tried pulling on both sides at once but not a hope will it budge, any suggestions or tools I can use to pull it off? Its probably just badly rusted on...
Also I forgot to mention I only have 1 rear brake pad for the drivers side now until my new ones get here (see below) Just wondering as a temporary fix could I get away with using just the one on the side closest the pistons so it doesnt grind?


On a seperate note, I asked my local alcoholic to change the front & rear brake pads for us and when I picked the car up the brake pads were gone from their box but the noise was still there, he told me he changed them but that I now needed a new front callipers on the drivers side...(that was a lie too I checked) The dodge git didnt even change the rear brakepads and took my brake pads! He did change the front ones though I checked to make sure. He could have at least told me what the problem was... wont be going back there again!

[goz_83]

Hi. Throw up an intro in the "introduce yourself" section.

If you cant get the disc off, you will need to spray something onto it, to loosen it a little. wd40 may just do it, leaving it for a while, before giving it another go.

I wouldn't risk driving without full brakes intact, with all pads. Aside from damaging the car, you could kill yourself, or someone else. Be smart, be patient, or go get some new pads if you cant wait for delivery. Get a trusted mechanic to fit the pads and not some cheap loser who obviously doesn't give a toss about safety.

[optical illusion]

Have you tried someone holding a flat wooden block against it and hitting it with a mallet? Or as someone said, soak in oil overnight.

[funkygreendogs]

I would have gone to a mechanic but its too expensive for the most part, plus learning to do it myself means I will save on having to pay someone to do it for me every couple of years.

Have you tried someone holding a flat wooden block against it and hitting it with a mallet? Or as someone said, soak in oil overnight.

How would the mechanics of this work? I assume hitting the disc back into its mount wouldnt help? If anything Id assume somehow getting under the car and hitting it with a block of wood outwards would do the trick? Dodgy though, I am pretty sure if i did something like that I would dislodge the car from the axel stands and crush myself!

I had to pack it in after being unable to get it off but I couldnt find any WD40 to hand and the shops were closed, I took some oil from the engine bay and rubbed it on, dont know if it will be any help to be honest it doesnt look like it would loose that up. Hopefully WD40 will sort it tomorrow

[Dragonheart]

It works with a wheel if it is stuck on and won't pull off. You obviously don't hit it bang in the middle, hit it on one side of the block, so essentially what you are doing is hitting the disc but protecting it with a block of wood so you don't damage it.

[holio]

As has been stated, tap of a hammer with wood to soften the impact. Its the only way really but you should find it comes off handy enough.

[goz_83]

Could also try some explosives if you're not comfortable with a hammer

[holio]

One way i found very effective is removing the car from the brake disc.

[goz_83]

One way i found very effective is removing the car from the brake disc.

[optical illusion]

LOL@holio

[funkygreendogs]

yea nice tip with the block of wood, that thing wouldnt budge I hit it with the hammer and tried ripping it off with a wrench. In the end, smacking it several times wth the block of wood in fustration worked a treat!

[holio]

Usually the shock from hitting it will cause the rust to relinquish its hold, works 90% of the time every time.
You got it sorted now?

[funkygreendogs]

Yeah the dics sorted now, just got the new brake pads today so hopefully should be able to sort over the weekend.
One thing im concerned about now is bleeding the brake lines, as I have fully removed the calliper, the brake line is held shut with a vice-grips but I did loose some fluid.

Is there any easy way to bleed this or can I just get away with topping up the master cylinder? I dont really want to go messing with the brake fluid

[holio]

Wouldnt hurt to bleed the system as its a 10+ year old car and its something often neglected.
If you do a search on here there is a guide to bleeding the entire system.

[goz_83]

Indeed. It's probably the only thing I haven't done, but all the brake hoses have been recently changed on mine, so the system has been topped up at least. Stewy has been asking about this in the last couple of days and I seen a post to say that 3 litres of fluid is enough to bleed and refill the system.

[optical illusion]

yea nice tip with the block of wood, that thing wouldnt budge I hit it with the hammer and tried ripping it off with a wrench. In the end, smacking it several times wth the block of wood in fustration worked a treat!

I will accept thank you gifts in the form of sweets, specifically Lindor truffles if you don't mind...

[StewyD32]

Is there any easy way to bleed this or can I just get away with topping up the master cylinder? I dont really want to go messing with the brake fluid

Try this:
http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/workshop/brake_lines/index.html

Ya don't need a bleed kit. Get someone to Press the brake and you release the vice and clamp it back up again. Make sure the fluid never goes under the minimum mark as a safe precaution.