Suspension links & bushes advice

[Mustang]

I recently replaced a few links and bushes on my car and just thought I’d share some of my experiences. This is not intended to be a “how to” guide just some random advice not in any particular order, based on what I found! If you are not planning any suspension work on your car turn away now before you fall asleep!
I recently replaced the following bushes and links on my car (GR).
Front anti-roll bar bushes. MR197603. 40699
Front droplinks. MR131680. 40621
Rear anti-roll bar bushes. MR197002. 41699
Rear droplinks. MR178796. 41631
Rear lower arm outer bushes. MR197915. 41399C
Rear lower arm inner bushes. MR244851. 41399B
Rear control links MR197603. 41617
(MR*** numbers are mitsubishi part numbers. The other numbers are PNC numbers, used for product grouping and indentification)

Front suspension:
Replacing the droplinks looks like quite a simple job, and it should be. I managed to remove 3 of the 4 bolts without much hassle, however due to corrosion on one of bolts I ended up having to cut it off. Other than that no problems.
The instructions on funky fto for replacing the front ARB bushes are very good, but instead of using an open-ended spanner as suggested. I would recommend using a small adjustable ratchet (one that allows you to adjust the angle of the ratchet arm) with socket; this really simplifies the process of loosening and tightening the bolt (40698), which holds the bush in place.

Rear Suspension:
Before removing or replacing any parts of the main suspension assembly you should mark the positions of the camber and toe-in adjustment bolts.
I suggest using tipp-ex or similar, a pen or pencil mark is likely to get rubbed away, if you remove these bolts.

Removing the camber and toe-in bolts:
These are just nut and bolt assemblies, simple to remove right? Wrong! This was the single most difficult part of stripping the suspension.

The camber bolt is connected to the lower arm (41300AL/R). Remove the nut (41605), washer (41606) and ‘offset washer’(41325) (facing the back of the car) and the bolt (41306B) should slide out. This bolt is connected to the inner bush 41399B; this is actually a ball joint assembly with an inner sleeve, into which the camber adjustment bolt fits. Problem is that the bolt corrodes to the inner sleeve and the perfectly round cross sectional shape of the bolt deforms. Due to the offset on the camber bolt you can only rotate it about ¼ turn, when it’s in place. Even so this doesn’t matter because as you turn the bolt the inner sleeve rotates in the ball joint, so you don’t get any relative motion between the sleeve and the bolt.
There’s nothing for it only a lot of brute force, ignorance and perseverance to get the bolt out. I had to use a hammer to get the bolt out far enough just so I could rotate it fully.
A combination of turning the bolt, oil, and hammering finally worked the bolt free.
(This seems severe, and the prospect of taking a hammer to my FTO does not appeal, but you have to be cruel to be kind!)
Much the same story with the toe-in adjustment bolts (41604B).
[The toe-in adjustment bolt (41604B) is connected to the control link (41617)].



Rear lower arm bushes inner and outer:
These bushes both have outer metal sleeves and are of a cylindrical shape. Don’t be fooled into thinking that they will just slide in and out of the lower arm. There is a very tight tolerance here, and in addition to that mine were corroded into place. Best to get them press fitted (same applies if you are replacing the trailing arm bush 41387, in which they have to be press fitted).
I brought the two lower arms and four bushes to a local garage, a few minutes and €20 later job done.

Before refitting the camber and toe-in adjustment bolts, I skimmed them with a wire-brush-type drill bit accessory, and very lightly greased them, to help prevent further corrosion. It would be advisable to simply replace these bolts, especially if you are replacing major suspension components.

Rear droplinks:
On GPX & GPvR models the rear droplink arrangement consists of a pair of steel bars with a ball joint-mounted bolt on each end (similar to the front droplink arrangement on all models). On GR & GS models the rear droplink arrangement is different. One link consists of a long bolt, nut, sleeve (length of tubing), four bushes and four washers.
If replacing these links there are two options:
1.Replace the complete link assembly –kits available from the usual suspects.
2.Replace the bushes only. A ‘refill’ kit is available, you get a total of 8 bushes (4 for each link.). This is the cheaper option. (You reuse the old nuts bolts, washers, etc)

I replaced the complete links. Note the nut and bolt assembly are prone to corrosion, (there’s that word again) and while removing one of the droplinks I sheared off one of the bolts. Not that this mattered as I was replacing the whole link anyway. But if this happens and you only have the refill kit to hand!!! If you are replacing the droplink for the first time probably best to buy the complete kit.

In short, replacing these parts in reasonably straightforward, most of the difficulties arise from rusty nuts and bolts!

Mustang

[CJ]

Nice guide Mustang. As it happens, I had the car in with Paul Nolan last week with a view to getting the rear lower arm inner and outer bushes and the independant trailing arm bushes replaced, at least 2 of the bolts on the former were corroded into place. I ended buying a set of each (41606B &C) just to be on the safe side (I got carried away and got a set of front ARB bushes and a set of front bottom arm rear bushes (extra castor)), I'm hoping to replace all of the dampers as well so I would expect there to be a world of difference in the handling after all work has been undertaken, watch this space!

CJ

[Dave]

And how was the overall result? well worth doing?

[Myfeckin FTO]

Wow - pretty exhaustive guide Mustang.

Have to say though theres no way I'd go to the trouble of doing it myself - I just bought the parts off Camskill and gave the local garage 50yo-yo's for their trouble. The chap there is building his own Scooby rally car - and he's a hell of a lot handier than your average mechanic. You'd surely need some way of raising the car safely before attempting the above yourself.

[Mustang]

Dave wrote

And how was the overall result? well worth doing?

Complete transformation. Instead of sounding like a shagged high mileage taxi over the rough stuff all the clunking noises are gone.
Stability is also hugely improved. Now feels planted and pointy..like a proper sports car should


Myfeckinfto wrote

Wow - pretty exhaustive guide Mustang.

And exhausting, at the time.
But a good sense of work satisfaction

I just bought the parts off Camskill and gave the local garage 50yo-yo's for their trouble.

As a matter of curiousity what did you get done for €50?

You'd surely need some way of raising the car safely before attempting the above yourself.

Trolly jack, axle stands, wheel chucks, nothing exotic.

[Myfeckin FTO]

[As a matter of curiousity what did you get done for €50?

Changed front droplinks (Paul Nolan had changed rears already) - fitted the Front and Rear ARB's polturethane bushes - he also stuck in my Green Stuff front brake pads as well - and he tracked and balanced the car. Have to say though - out of embarrasment at the price I gave him an extra 20Euros.

BTW-this guy also put on the RSR exhaust I bought from Steelroe - and charged me €50 again - still good value though surely nothing like the work he put in with the bushes.

I will be getting him to change my clutch soon - and I have bought the last 4 sets of tyres (plus 2 sets of alloys) off him as well - my last set of Goodyear f1's cost me €145 each - not bad for 215/17 40's.

Having said that - I still got Paul Nolan to change my Cam Belt,Alt belt and PS belt and put in a full set of Denso Iridiums at the last service - the timing belt is just too tricky a job for me to trust with anyone except someone with a lot of experience with FTO's.

I think the way to go is to buy the stuff off Camskill/MotorsportWorld/Funky Product etc and get a good mechanic to stick it on - main dealer labour charges are crazy and their mechanics are generally monkeys.

[zacob]

CJ wrote

(I'm hoping to replace all of the dampers as well so I would expect there to be a world of difference in the handling after all work has been undertaken, watch this space!)

What are the dampers for and where are they? Sorry not the greatest knowledge with cars, only learning.

[CJ]

What are the dampers for and where are they?

The word dampers is considered a more accurate term for shock absorbers

CJ